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Pet Prescription and
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| INDEX OF ARTICLES | WAITING ROOM | EXAM ROOM | SURGERY ROOM | X-RAY ROOM | GENERAL TOPICS | IMPORTANT TOPICS | LAB and PHARMACY | PET PHOTOS | PET SUPPLIES | PET PHARMACY |
Pet First Aid
We'll still be here when you return.
Pet owners are sometimes
faced with emergency situations involving their pets without the presence or
guidance of their veterinarian. Animals can get sick or require first aid any place at any time.
Murphy’s Law tells us that this will most likely happen when your
veterinarian is unavailable. If you as a
pet owner have the knowledge of basic pet first aid, then the care, treatment
and prognosis for your pet will improve significantly.
The topics are listed below with a quick link to each...
A
message from Dr. Dunn:
Abrasions:
W
be treated
with first aid. Larger or deeper abrasions require professional medical attention.
To treat minor abrasions be sure your hands are clean then gently clip the fur
away from the wound. Fur in a healing wound can lead to contamination and
delayed healing. Use warm water to flush the wound to remove dirt and debris from the area.
Apply an antibiotic cream such as neosporin or bacitracin 3 or 4 times a day.
Generally, these two medications can be obtained without a prescription.
Distract the pet for a few minutes so avoid allowing the pet to lick the
medication off. These two medications in the amount applied to an abrasion
are relatively safe even if the pet licks a tiny amount from the abrasion.
If the wound spreads or produces pus or the
pet is uncomfortable, seek veterinary attention immediately.
Artificial
respiration or CPR:
This may be done in extreme situations and attempts to use artificial
respiration in pets can cause injury to the subject if done incorrectly.
First, look deep in the mouth and if possible pull the tongue forward.
Look for any object in the back of the throat such as kibbled food, a chew toy,
bone, or stick. Remove any object and begin CPR. If
the pet is not breathing, lay it down on its right side.
Check for a heartbeat by extending the left front leg forward to expose the
chest area just behind shoulder. Place your ear against the chest wall and
listen for a heartbeat or place your fingertips against the chest near to
sternum (front of the chest). If there is no
heartbeat, you can start chest compressions as well, see “CPR.”
To inflate the lungs, extend the neck as if the pet is stretching the jaw far
forward. Now there should be a straight airway from the nose and mouth
back into the lungs. Close the pet's mouth and place your mouth around the
end of the muzzle covering the nose and blow through the pet's nose. You
should be able to see the chest expand. Large breeds may need some force
to expand the lungs but small breeds of dogs and cats may require very little
force of breath to expand the chest. Do not over inflate the lungs!
If you see the chest rising you are doing well. Breath into the pet, view
the chest rise, remove your mouth to allow escape of air, then repeat after the
pet exhales. Seek veterinary attention as soon as possible.
Birth
(Whelping and Queening):
If your pet is having any difficulty with giving birth, call your veterinarian
immediately! There's some good information on whelping on
this page of ThePetCenter.com. The gestation
period for most dogs and cats is about 59 to 63 days.
After about 52 days of gestation an x-ray can be taken to see how many puppies or kittens to expect.
By this time the little skeletons of the fetuses are visible on a radiograph
("x-ray"). Just before giving birth, called parturition, the pet will usually
become restless and may stay close to its owner. Some pets will want to be
alone and will look for a quiet place (which you can prepared ahead of time) to
deliver the little offspring. Expect a kitten or pup every 45-60 minutes,
and sometimes at much shorter intervals. You can clip the fur from long haired
cats and dogs well prior to parturition to help keep the mother clean during and
after delivery. The amnionic sac, which looks like a cellophane wrapping over
the newborn, is usually removed by the mother's licking. If it is not
removed within two or three minutes by the mother, do gently remove it so the
newborn can begin breathing! Clean the airways of the new puppies and kittens
by removing mucous from the nose and you can aspirate mucous with suction with a
rubber bulb syringe if the newborn seems very congested in the nose. The mother
should accept the newborn to a mammary gland right away and many pups and
kittens are already nursing when the remainder of the litter is still on the
way. See ThePetCenter.com's article on
whelping
for more information.
Seek veterinary
attention immediately if:
*
the mother seems in very obvious pain
* 30-60 minutes of
strong contractions occur with no newborn being produced
* greater than
four hours pass between newborns and you expect more
* a fetus seems to be stuck in the birth canal
* more than 65 days of gestation (since the last breeding) have
passed
Bite
wounds:
Always use caution when approaching or handling an animal that is injured by
bite wounds or trauma. If they are in pain they may bite out of reflexive
self-protection when at no other time would they bite anyone. Use a
muzzle if needed. Flush the wound well with warm water and try to clip fur
from any wounds.
Topical bacitracin can be applied to a skin break. It is important to note
that bite wounds are a combination of penetrating and crushing damage.
A small hole in the skin can mask severe tearing of tissues and bleeding hidden
beneath the skin. Gently wrap any skin tears with bandaging material and apply
direct pressure to a site that displays active bleeding. Bite wounds usually become infected, so it is
very important to have a veterinarian assess any bite wound because even the
most innocent bite wound has potential to become seriously infected. Oral
antibiotics may be needed.
Bloat:
Stomach
expansion due to a buildup of gas or froth which cannot be expelled by belching
or passage along the intestinal tract will lead to bloat. Also called
gastric dilatation, bloat
can occur rapidly and be fatal within hours of onset. Veterinarians always
consider a bloat case as a true emergency that demands immediate
attention for the best chance of a good outcome for the patient.
Death is usually a result of circulatory failure and shock. The causes of bloat
are not yet well understood but it seems to occur most in large breeds of dogs:
it is seldom seen in cats. If you notice your dog gagging, trying unsuccessfully to vomit,
displaying strings of saliva hanging from the mouth and shows
signs of a distended abdomen... call your veterinarian immediately! This
is a true emergency. The belly will appear rounded and full and be rather
hard and tight when you touch it. There's more information and photos of
actual cases if you look at
this
page. First aid for bloat is not a good idea... this
situation requires trained medical attention. However, if you wish to
learn how to recognize when you should actually penetrate the stomach through
the skin to relieve stomach gas buildup, discuss the proper conditions and
procedures with your veterinarian. Relieving stomach gas yourself via
stomach penetration through the skin should be considered only if you are in a
remote location where veterinary attention cannot be acquired for hours.
Broken
toenail:
Just about anyone who tries to clip their own dog's toenails will sometime clip
too short and create what may seem like severe bleeding.
Burns:
Choking:
Flush
the injury immediately with Run cool water over the burned area if possible.
An ice pack (crushed ice and water mix) held within a soft towel and held gently
against the affected area can decrease the inflammatory reaction to the burn
injury. Seek veterinary attention immediately.
If possible try to open the pet's mouth to inspect for food, toys or other
objects caught in the back of the throat but be cautious about the
potential for being bitten. Sometimes a "choking" sound can actually
be a normal or vigorous "clearing of the throat" to remove accumulated mucous or
phlegm. Tonsillitis, a "sore throat" or an irritated throat from the dog swallowing
irritants can trigger what seems like choking. In true choking, the animal
will be in severe distress, salivate, paw at the mouth and have difficulty
breathing. Long nosed pliers or
a forceps can be helpful in grasping an object caught deep in the throat. You may also use quick
but gentle chest compression in an attempt to force air from the lungs to dislodge
an object. By placing your hands on opposite sides of the chest and
cautiously but quickly compressing the chest to mimic a cough you may be able to expel an object lodged at the larynx.
Call your veterinary attention immediately.
CPR:
If the animal is not breathing and the airway and mouth are free of
objects, lay it down on its right side.
Check for a heartbeat by listening to the chest where the elbow
touches the ribs. If there is no
heartbeat, you can start chest compressions with the flat of your hand as well.
To breathe for the animal extend the neck so that there is a straight
airway, close its mouth; place your mouth around its
muzzle and blow air into the nose until the chest expands.
Be sure to keep the neck out straight, not flexed. You should be able to see the
chest expand with each breath... don't over-do forcing air into the lungs.
This should be performed every 5 seconds.
If chest compressions are required to stimulate heart contractions, place one hand on each side of the
chest in the area of the heart about 5 to 7 ribs back from the base of the neck.
Compress every second and stop occasionally to force air into the lungs. Compressions with the thumb and forefinger of one
hand may be all that is needed for cardiac stimulation in very small dogs or in
cats. Unfortunately,
this procedure, because the patient may already be dead, is rarely successful.
Cuts:
Small and superficial cuts may heal well with simple clean water rinsing and the
application three times a day with an antibiotic ointment. Any cut that
after three days is moist, draining, has reddened and swollen edges should be
examined by a veterinarian. Treat cuts as you would an abrasion.
Flush enough to remove all dirt and debris from the area.
Diarrhea:
Bt definition diarrhea is not just loose stool. Diarrhea is the
frequent and repetitive passage of loose, watery stool.
Your
judgment regarding the health status of a pet with diarrhea is critical. 
Bloody diarrhea with severe straining may be an emergency, especially for cats
and small breeds of dogs. Diarrhea
along with vomiting can be a sign of serious intestinal obstruction that may
even need surgery. Weakness, pain,
vomiting, or agitation are serious signs that the pet needs medical attention...
not simply a little first aid! A pet with diarrhea but
few other signs of distress may sometimes be treated at home but the variables
are so numerous that it is best to call your veterinarian regarding the
situation. Always have a fecal sample checked just in case
worms or other parasites such as Giardia are a factor. (To see an article on intestinal parasites, look
here.)
Eye
injuries:
Surprisingly, dogs and cats have few serious eye injuries. Nevertheless, any
injury to the eye can lead to permanent scarring or blindness if penetrating or
ulcerative lesions develop.
If you suspect there may be a debris or irritation affecting your pet's eye, you can use any commercial saline flush to clean foreign objects from the eye and to
visualize the seriousness of the situation. If
your pet is squinting, hiding its eyes from the light, has a raised third
eyelid or has any blood within or around the eye, it's time to see the
veterinarian without delay.
Fractures:
Broken bones in pets can range from simple being a nuisance to being actually
life threatening, especially if a sharp bone fragment severs an artery. Be
cautious about the pain response of any animal they displays signs of a
fractured bone. If safe and not stressful for the pet, try to gently
assess a traumatized area that may harbor a broken bone by looking for bruising,
an abnormal contour to the surface that isn't present on the opposite side, a
twist to a limb that is not normal, or discomfort when a local pressure is
applied.
Use a muzzle if required. If the pet is bleeding try to apply pressure to
the area to stop blood flow.
Apply a clean cloth or bandage material gently to bleeding areas for
protection and mild pressure. If possible immobilize a fracture area and
get started toward the animal hospital as soon as possible. Sometimes a
stretcher improvised from a blanket or plywood board can be very helpful in
transporting an animal that cannot walk. If you provide careful support to any fractured limbs
trying to apply a splint may not be necessary.
Frostbite:
Remove
the animal from the cold source. Run cool water over the affected areas.
Do not warm up the frostbitten area quickly! The affected area should not
be massaged or rubbed "to get the circulation going". Seek
veterinary attention immediately.
Heatstroke:
Signs
of heat stroke are severe, rapid panting, wide eyes, staggering and
weakness. If suspected and you can take 
the animal's temperature rectally,
any temperature above 106 degrees is dangerous. The longer the temperature remains
at or above 106 degrees the more serious the situation; heatstroke can be fatal
in minutes! Place
your pet in a tub of cool running water or spray with a hose being sure the cool
water contacts the skin and doesn't simply run off the coat. Thoroughly
wet the belly and inside the legs. Take a rectal temperature if possible to
know when to stop
cooling. A safe temperature is about 103 degrees.
Seek veterinary attention as soon as possible.
Pets left in cars are at a severe disadvantage when it comes to being able to dissipate heat from their bodies. Even in the shade, and especially in humid conditions, dogs need to inhale air cooler than their normal body temperature of 102 degrees. In fact, even 80 degree air temperatures can be dangerous if the humidity is high. Always be careful about leaving pets in cars during warm days... even a few minutes can be critical. Read a full article about Heat Stroke here.
Hot
Spots:
Also called Moist Eczema these suddenly appearing, wet, circular patches
of infection on the skin create intense itching and irritation. A result
of a tick or insect bite, or even from a mild abrasion or moisture contacting
the skin, Hot Spots can spread very rapidly across the skin surface and beneath
the fur so they may be difficult to see. It is best to trim the fur around
the affected area to allow air to assist in drying. Daily cleaning of the
Hot Spot with hydrogen peroxide or sterile saline, 
even
every two hours for the first day or two, will speed up the healing.
Also, any topical anti-bacterial ointment such as Bacitracin, will arrest the
growth of the bacteria. These skin lesions can take a week to
finally dry and look like they are going to heal. Once they are no longer
oozing, simply keeping the Hot Spot area clean will be all that's needed.
The fur begins to grow back (sometimes a different color!) within two weeks. For
a good look at treating Hot Spots, see this
page.
Porcupine Quills
You will never forget that first glimpse of your dog running toward you with a
face full of porcupine quills! Porkies cannot "shoot" their quills at a
dog but will surely swipe a prickly tail across a dog's face as the dog comes in
to sniff-id these slow moving woodland pin cushions. Quills can be small
and easily removed using your fingers or four inches long and tough to remove
even with pliers. Faced (no pun intended) with quills in your dog's body,
try to calm the dog and if there are many, many quills, get to the animal
hospital as soon as possible. Count on the need for a general anesthetic
and a long quill removal event with antibiotics prescribed afterwards as a
precaution against infection. If there are only a few quills, try covering
the dog's eyes so he doesn't see you coming toward the quill with a pliers or
strong forceps. Attempt to grasp the quill near the dog's skin. (The
quill is NOT under pressure so "cutting open" the quill is unnecessary).
Be prepared for the dog to jerk back as soon as you grasp the quill and that
backward movement usually is enough to "remove the dog from the quill" as long
as you hold the pliers steady. Otherwise, a decisive pull directly outward
often will extract the quill. many quills will break as you try to remove
them. Grasp again closer to the skin and keep trying. If a number of
quills break off under the skin, your veterinarian may prescribe antibiotics.
In general porcupine quills do not migrate into the dogs body, but they can
create a local abscess and emerge through the sin a few weeks later where they
usually are easily extracted at that time. Look at a much more about porky
quills here.
Insect
bites:
Sometimes many small bumps arise in the skin after being stung or bitten by a
single insect. In some geographic locations, especially in southern states, some
insects such as fire ants can really create an unpleasant experience for a pet. You can call your veterinarian about advice for an over-the-counter
antihistamine to reduce
the allergic response.
Poisoning:
Record what and how much your pet ingested or contacted. Call your veterinarian
or poison control center immediately. A local or national animal poison control
center may give you instructions on how to control individual situations of
pet poisonings. Do not induce vomiting without talking to your
veterinarian first! It is always helpful to bring the wrapper or container
of a suspected poison with you to the veterinarian or to have to read the
"contains" active ingredients. If vomiting is indicated hydrogen peroxide
or salt placed on the back of the tongue often will induce vomiting in dogs and
cats. How much do you give? A ten pound dog or cat might get half a
teaspoonful of hydrogen peroxide placed (not forced to swallow) in the back of
the mouth. A 100 pound dog may get two tablespoonfuls of hydrogen peroxide
place in the mouth. Syrup
of ipecac is a common emetic but may be difficult to acquire so check with your
veterinarian about using this product. With any suspected poisoning
whether ingested or by contact or inhalation, seek
veterinary attention immediately.
Punctures:
Innocent though they may seem, puncture wounds need to be treated with caution.
Just like a bite wound discussed above, puncture wounds may be the "tip of the
iceberg" and not readily show the true seriousness of the underlying damage.
Flush and apply a topical antibiotic, and if you know that the wound is not
highly traumatic, you may simply keep a close eye on the area and seek
veterinary help if swelling and inflammation occur. Unlike humans, pets
seldom (but can) get tetanus. A "tetanus shot" is not needed for dogs and
cats even though on extremely rare occasions a deep puncture wound that is
contaminated with Clostridium bacteria that becomes trapped under the skin could
create a serious muscle and nerve disorder.
Lacerations:
Deep cuts or very long cuts can be cleaned gently with cool water and a topical
antibiotic can be applied before bandaging snugly. Then off you go to the
veterinarian's office for assessment and suturing. Avoid giving "pain
killers" such as aspirin or ibuprofen before you get to talk to the doctor.
Plans on some surgery whenever deep lacerations occur because sometimes severed
muscles, tendons or nerves will need to be reattached.
Seizures:
Urinary
tract
blockage:
Straining
and crying while posturing to urinate without the production of urine
constitutes an emergency. Call the animal hospital immediately regarding
and evaluation.
Especially in male cats there can be an obstruction of the urethra from minerals
or small bladder stones. Without appropriate treatment, your pet can die. Urinary
tract problems so not lend themselves well to first aid therapy nor herbal
remedies. If you believe your dog or cat is unable to urinate, do not delay... seek veterinary attention immediately.
Vomiting:
Your Pet
First Aid Kit
|
MAKE YOUR OWN PERSONAL FIRST AID KIT FOR DOGS |
|
||||
|
Make your own first aid kit for cats! Look at a suggested item checklist below.
|
Make your own first aid kit for cats! Look at a suggested item checklist below.
|
You
can order online an assortment of first aid kit supplies; create your own kit
and avoid paying for items you already have or simply do not need.
Take a look at the inventory of first aid items
here... then use the search window to input first aid to see the
products.
|
A simple home First Aid Kit should include |
|
| Board or blanket
to use as a stretcher |
Gauze and
bandage material for wrapping wounds |
| Rope or soft
cloth to use as a muzzle (do not use if vomiting) |
Adhesive tape |
| Nonstick
bandages |
Saline eye flush |
| 3% Hydrogen
peroxide |
Syringe or
eyedropper for medicating |
| Towels or cloth
to control bleeding |
List of Emergency Phone Numbers |
Important
Emergency numbers
My veterinarian:
___________________________________________
Second
Choice veterinarian_________________________________
Local Emergency
clinic: ____________________________________
| The National Animal
Poison Control Center (NAPPC)
of the University of Illinois can be reached
by calling 1-900-680-0000 or 1- 800-548-2423. The NAPPC is located at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign and is a non-profit service of the University of Illinois. It was the first animal-oriented poison center founded (in 1978) in the United States. It provides advice to animal owners and confers with veterinarians about poisoning exposures. |
The ASPCA National
Animal Poison Control Center The National Animal Poison Control Center of the ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) can be reached by calling 1-888-4ANI-HELP (1-888-426-4435). The Center consults with animal owners, veterinarians, and others about poisoning exposures and other toxicology issues. |
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All material on this website is the sole property of ThePetCenter.com. |
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